![]() ![]() Let's say, example, that the dash mounted ignition is what "operates" the car? You take that out and examine it, and it appears NOT to be "hacked up" and spliced into the harness. ![]() What I mean by that is that you may have OTHER unrelated problems in the harness not related to having "mixed and matched" parts and pieces. The SECOND problem you may be facing is general wear and tear.problems in the bulkhead connector, the headlight switch (unrelated) and it's connector, and the ignition switch (unrelated) and it's mating connector. You are going to have to get documentation, drop the column so you can remove the dash, and get in there and check and rework and repair the wiring. That connector you are holding is for a column ignition switch.Īs I said before, you have an abortion. 73 would be on the column like "more modern cars" You say you have a 73 column? The ignition switch is ON the column? Is it being used? Where is the switch that operates the car? 68 would have been in the dash to the right of the column. I may have some hard news for you, and it goes right up to the top of this post There's a lot of informative guys on here. We can offer advice and point you to previous threads. Clean, bend contacts, replace sockets and bulbs as needed. The instrument lamp sockets may have weak contact fingers, be corroded, burned out bulbs, and corroded / dirty PC board where they twist in. The gauge units may or may not be accurate Replace with real nuts and tighten / loosen / tighten to scrub the connection clean The gauge connector nuts may be loose / corroded. RTE engineering sells them, solid state, and there are others. On mine, not making contact with the board traces, had to solder jumpers acrossīuild or buy a new IVR. The socket for the gauge IVR (instrument voltage regulator) is made of brass contact fingers. ![]() On my 67, I opted to solder wire pigtails to the pc board traces, and replaced the original connectors with Molex style which I bought at Radio Shack Harness connector pins on the circuit board: These come loose or break. Here's some of the stuff you might be up against in the cluster, ALL of which is pretty much repairable, you simply have to get it out and go to it If you think the harness is factory to 68, and has simply had the later column interfaced into it, things should not be too bad to figure out. I have no idea why I'm awake at 2 O'clock in the freekin morning!! I would be pulling the cluster to inspect and fix the cluster problems. The dash lamps may be a separate problem. You can access part of "it" as the wiring comes out of the column, and the rear harness connector to the tail harness in the left kick panel. If you have a meter and test lamp, and get some clip leads (Radio Shack) we might be able to step you through some tests. Turn signal flasher power is routed to left or right rear depending on lever position. Make certain the emergency flasher switch is offīrake light power goes to BOTH rear lamps with the signal switch in center position. So power goes to the separate emergency flasher and then TO the column In the case of the 70 and later colums, the emergency flasher switch became part of the signal switch in the column. You have switched brake light power going TO the column You have power going to the signal flasher and that feeds TO the column You'll have to look at the column wiring for the 72 and see if you can make sense between those diagrams and the 68/9 "rest of the car."īasically all column switches work the same. You might look at the 68/ 69 manuals and the 72 manual. What do you have for shop manuals? Download free ones here and an MyMopar: Without knowing "what was done" that is, what harnesses were used, and whether it EVER worked with that late model column, all you can do is dig in and try and fix it ![]()
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